Öland

After the recent news about moving to China I was resolved to try to make the most of my time here in Denmark. Top of the list was a visit to the Swedish island of Öland, a long thin stretch of land off the east coast of southern Sweden. It is known as a great birding destination, particularly during migration but it also has some summer breeders that are very scarce or absent further west. My target species was Barred Warbler. Having been based in the UK for so long I have seen a few autumn juveniles but I had never seen a Spring singing male. After a short conversation with Phil, we decided to spend two nights at Ottenby at the southern tip of the island to see what we could turn up.

After a very early start (0345) from Copenhagen I caught the train to Lund, from where Phil picked me up for the drive across Skåne. Our first stop was at a military firing range on the east coast of Skåne called Ravlunda. Live firing was taking place that day at 1300 so we had to be well out of the way by 12ish.. We arrived at 0800 and began brilliantly with a singing male Firecrest along the access road, soon followed by singing Woodlark, Golden Oriole, good numbers of Red-backed Shrike, a stunning male Montagu's Harrier, Osprey, singing Wryneck, Icterine Warbler, Thrush Nightingale... what a great site! A wander around finally produced a pair of Tawny Pipits, one of our target birds, as well as a few Black-throated Divers offshore. There was an outside chance of Barred Warbler here so, while Phil checked the main area for Tawny Pipits I nipped over to investigate a sylvia warbler that was singing from some scrub along the edge. I probably spent about five minutes here and these were the only five minutes that Phil and I were out of sight and not within audible range. Unfortunately for me (but fortunately for Phil) he heard and then saw a flyover Bee-eater! He immediately tried to get my attention through a combination of whistles, shouts and even calling my mobile phone (on silent!) but in vain. As I returned Phil was gesticulating wildly but I was just too late - the Bee-eater had flown out of sight. You win some, you lose some.
As the military began to set up their dummies and sights we took our cue and left, taking in a calling Lesser Spotted Woodpecker on the way - a thoroughly enjoyable few hours at a fantastic site. After a short rain-interrupted (and unsuccessful) attempt to see Serin, we drove on to Öland, jamming in on a White Stork along the way and picking up a few Red Kites.

Öland is a lovely island, around 137km long from north to south and a maximum of 16km wide and dominated in the southern part by the unusual limestone-based habitat called 'Alvaret'. We drove south along the west coast to Ottenby and checked in at the youth hostel (ideally located for birders). By now the rain had stopped but the mist had descended. Not ideal conditions but we did manage to pick up some waders on the drive down to the point (Redshank with young, Black-tailed and Bar-tailed Godwits, Whimbrel, Turnstone) plus a couple of 2k Little Gulls before calling it a day and heading back for dinner.

Saturday was a very different day weather-wise. No rain but instead a very strong south-westerly wind (averaging 15m/s with gusts up to 20-25m/s). Birding in this was a challenge. It was really energy-sapping and we were both pretty frazzled at the end of the day. We began in the relative calm of the wood at Norra Lunden where we soon connected with Collared Flycatcher (a pair in a nest box), heard a snatch of Red-breasted Flycatcher (heard only) and the first of many Rosefinches (nearly everywhere we stopped we heard one). A search for Barred Warbler in the almost gale-force winds was not looking promising until we heard a strong rattle from a bush which, on investigation, revealed a female-type Barred which unfortunately disappeared immediately. We drove up the east coast, stopping at Seby for waders (a one-legged Curlew Sandpiper the most notable bird here) and Hulterstad (4 Black Terns) before cutting across the west coast via Möckelmossen (a nice site but difficult to stay upright in the wind) on our way to Beijershamn. Here I had a strategic power nap while Phil braved the coastal walk, picking up Spotted Redshank, Wigeon and a few other bits and bobs.

From here we drove south again picking up Crane and Red Kite before looking for the reported Kentish Plovers at Ottenby. No sign of the plovers but we did meet a young Swedish couple who told us that they might have seen the Steppe Eagle that has been present on the island since the autumn. We headed back up that way more in hope rather than expectation but we were glad we did. We didn't see the eagle but we did connect with a nice male Goshawk before jamming in on a singing male Barred Warbler right next to the road. Phil skilfully maneouvred the car right alongside, allowing me to grab a few close-up snaps of this much wanted bird. It song-flighted a couple of times before crossing the road and diving into shelter (the wind was still very strong). There was a Red-backed Shrike in the same bush - just as it says in the books, these two species seem to be best buddies - wherever we saw Barred there was a Red-backed Shrike very close by.

The drive back to Ottenby produced a male Montagu's Harrier carrying food plus another Rosefinch by the side of the road. A nice finish to a challenging but productive day.

Sunday again started early at Ottenby, this time with Phil going for the Kentish Plovers (again unsuccessfully) and me poking around Sodra Lunden. With less strong (but still moderate) winds, I lucked in on 4 Barred Warblers, 2 Golden Orioles (including one adult male), Collared Flycatcher and several Red-backed Shrikes. The slightly less harsh conditions clearly lending themselves to improved birding activity. From here we drove north towards the bridge to Beijershamn where we connected with a good flock (30+) of Spotted Redshanks and a few Dunlin. It was here that Mrs B told us about a singing River Warbler just over the bridge in Kalmar. As it was on the way back we stopped off and saw and heard the River Warbler at pretty close range... a great bird. A lovely 'red' male Rosefinch was a bonus. The long drive back to Båstad ended with a failed attempt to connect with a singing 2k male Red-breasted Flycatcher close to the railway station but it didn't take the edge off what was a top trip. Thanks to Phil for doing all the driving - I don't know how he did it! I flopped onto the train and was back in Copenhagen by 6pm to enjoy dinner with my long-suffering wife!