Friday 7 August 2009

Neck Head

After our washout camping trip in Bohuslan, Sweden (where, incredibly, it rained constantly for 36 hours) we decided to return home early and spend the last few days camping in Denmark. The forecast was much better here and so we identified a couple of good potential sites on the north Sjaelland coast and pitched up in the glorious sun.. Our last day was spent walking the coast path from Rågeleje to Nakkehoved (literally "neck head"), about 12km. The coast is beautiful with rolling hills producing occasional cliffs, interspersed with low heathland and both pine and deciduous woodland. This area is traditionally a great migration spot in Spring as birds are funnelled to the most northerly point - Gilbjerg Hoved - as they journey north. A short stop at this headland en route produced some migration, even in early August, with a few Tree Pipits moving accompanied by good numbers of Sand Martin. A little further east stands the historic lighthouse at Nakkehoved. This point marks the narrowest point between northern Sjaelland and the Swedish coast (hence the name 'Neck Head" - I love that name!) and has housed a lighthouse since 1772.. Originally it consisted of a coal fire on top of a wooden structure but was later converted to oil and then, subsequently, to electricity. It still operates today, even with the development of GPS.

I do like a good lighthouse, especially as they are often associated with spectacular geography and, of course, generally have a rich bird history if on a migration route. This one is no exception and you can see the view from the tower in the photos below. Over the years the woodland around the lighthouse has been a magnet to migrants and is a good spot to see Yellow-browed Warblers in autumn. Last September it also played host to a Tengmalm's Owl and several Nutcrackers.

The lighthouse itself must be a stunning place from which to monitor visible migration but, unfortunately, according to the 'keeper' they don't open the tower to birders. It would be perfect; a great view along the coast, just above the tree tops; an open 'observation deck' all around the tower, with the lamp in the centre providing shelter from the wind; and a lighthouse keeper to make cups of tea :-). Maybe I'll write to the Admiralty!

Photos: Nakkehoved Lighthouse; the lens with reflections of sky; view west from Nakkehoved (towards Gilleleje); the view north; and the view east (with Sweden in the distance)





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