Friday 18 May 2007

China










































A work trip meant I visited China for the first time this week. For four days I marvelled at the hustle and bustle, the incredible history and the tremendous buzz that exists in China's capital city. The sheer scale of China's growth is staggering. Here are a few statistics: there are over 1,000 new cars on the streets of Beijing EVERY DAY; China's energy use has grown by 60 per cent in the last 5 years; and in 1988 there were no motorways in China - today they are second only to the US in terms of miles of motorway. Economic growth is booming at an impressive 10 per cent per annum and the Chinese themselves are seemingly struggling to keep up with the rapid pace of change. One of my Chinese contacts described China as "like an elephant riding a bike - if it slows down, it will likely fall off". But, despite China's new found prosperity, it is still the case that nearly 500 million Chinese still live on less than two dollars per day.

Whilst the major hotels are full of western businessmen doing deals and American toursists, there are still remarkably few foreigners around. I was lucky enough to be able to change my return flight so that I could enjoy an extra day to see a few of the sights. Tiananman Square is hugely impressive and the sight of rows upon rows of enormous red flags blowing in the wind is breathtaking. I was able to spend a little time at the Forbidden City, a massive complex of 9,999 rooms forming the largest palace in the world. Wow. And I spent a half day in the amazing Panjiayuan Weekend Market (known as the "dirty market" - more like dirt cheap!). The expected behaviour here is haggling and I have to say I really got into it. After successfully securing a meagre 10 per cent off the price of a piece of hanging Chinese art (with Pandas on), I got into my stride and confidently made an offer of only 100 Yuan (about 2 pounds) to an old-looking lady for a vase that was being offered at 7,000 Yuan. To my amazement, we settled on a price of 200 Yuan. I felt bad. But then I comoforted myself in the knowledge that she was never going to sell me that vase at a loss. I am sure there are a lot of fakes there but the sheer volume and originality of the Chinese art on offer is like nothing you will see in the west. From large Buddhas to pottery that looks as if it's just been dug up to silks, beads and miniature boxes.. Anyone who likes a shop should visit. Of course that is just one of the markets in Beijing and there are many many more - I could barely scratch the surface of this incredible city. Already I am missing it and I know that I will be back.

On the bird front, saw only Magpie (boring ones the same as our European version), Swifts, Barn Swallows and Tree Sparrows (oh yes, and a Mynah and a Great Tit in cages). But I guess one needs to get out of Beijing for much more..

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